CAMPING UNDER THE STONES AT PANGONG TSO LADAKH
As we drove back from visiting the Buddhist monasteries of Ladakh, Dorjee asked me if I wanted to camp under the stars tomorrow. We had planned to go to Pangong Tso (one of the stunning high-altitude lakes in Ladakh), but I thought Dorjee was referring to one camp at Pangong Lake. Camp by the lake is one of the most adventurous things you can do in Ladakh. I saw many tourists going there. Dorjee asked me if we were going to one of the tented camps, and he replied, “No, we will pitch your tent.” “
Ladakh’s breathtaking landscapes
Eight years ago, my husband and I took a long trip to the Land of the High Passes. It was my first time in the mountain kingdom. The husband had been to Leh once before. We had never camped in the Himalayas.
On the way to Pangong Tso
Dorjee’s offer was appealing. After being in Ladakh for five days, there was so much to do that we had no choice but to slow down.
The host for the day
We’d been to Khardungla, Nubra Val, and the monasteries Thiksey and Shey, Alchi. Hemis and Stakna were also there. We planned to visit the lakes of Ladakh, Tso Moriri, and Tso Kar. Dorjee suggested that we bring sleeping bags and tents with us to pitch outside Pangong Tso for the night. It would be much better than the Pangong Lake camps, he promised. We couldn’t say no.
Blues of Pangong tso
Many have been fascinated by the lakes of Ladakh for centuries. Some groups swear by Pangong Tso, while others love Tso Moriri. Tso Kar, Tso Kyagar, and other beautiful lakes are also available. Pangong Tso will always be my favorite. Imagine waking up to these views.
A morning in Pangong Tso
Our day began very early. The sun was shining, and the landscape looked stunning. The mountains were embraced by low-hanging clouds, and the colors of the streams were reflected in the water. As we drove towards Leh, the landscape changed before our eyes.
Ladakh women
We had Dorjee as our passenger. He was also our cook and had prepared some yummy momos. We were enjoying our breakfast in the middle, with only a small murmuring stream of conversation.
Dramatic clouds enhance the scene.
This is what I consider travel. As the men sang Ladakhi folk songs to us and entertained us with local gossip, we were wandering aimlessly. The marmots arrived looking for companionship. And suddenly, Dorjee whispered, ” Cha Tung Tung Karbo. “
Ladakh’s black-necked cranes
We saw a few black-necked cranes, which are the national birds of Kashmir. My inner birder came out. These birds, large and painted in shades of grey and white, were visible through my zoom lens. They had a black head, red crown patches, black legs, and an upper neck and neck with black legs. There was also a white patch at the eye. These cranes are used in Buddhist iconography to signify marital longevity. They migrate from Tibet to Ladakh to reproduce. “There is even song around them,” says Dorjee, breaking into tune.
Pangong’s first glimpse
As snow-covered mountains became grasslands, we continued on our journey. Changla was the highest mountain pass at 5360m (17590ft). After chatting with the soldiers over tea, we continued our journey until we came across a patch of blue peeking out from the mountains.
It peeks out from the mountains like a painting.
It was my first time seeing Pangong Tso. This lake flows between India, Tibet, and China. Nearly 60% of it is believed to be in China. It was like a painting. Although it took me six hours to drive from Leh, we drove slowly and enjoyed every moment.
It was all I could see were mountains and an endless expanse of sky that changed every second. We were like tiny specks in the midst of nature. Other than a couple, there were no tourists. Pangong Tso wasn’t a tourist spot when we visited it eight years ago.
Lake to ourselves virtually.
Three Idiots wasn’t yet shot here. In my opinion, it was an incredibly stupid idea to film a movie in such fragile locations. Most travelers only visit Pangong for a one-day trip. They would leave early at 4 am to return to Leh in the evening.
Blue is not always the best.
This would have meant that I would be on the road for 12 hours, which was just not possible. There weren’t many options for accommodation. There were not many homestays available, so one had to travel to Spangmik, a nearby village, to search.
The moment changes color.
Pangong lake was also very sparsely populated. Although the situation has changed, I was able to experience this beautiful lake before it became a tourist attraction.
Dramatic clouds enhance the scene.
We wandered aimlessly for quite a while. We walked around aimlessly as the lake changed colors. The many shades of blue were visible. Although I was concerned about altitude sickness, I found that Leh had helped me to adjust.
Cultures by the banks
A few locals were nearby and owned the camping site. The boys discovered it. They let me camp for one night, and I was back in no time. There were four tents, one for each of us and one for the men. The men cooked and slept in one, and another one was for us to use as a sleeping area and one for our meals. The last tent was for drying out. We wanted to be sustainable in the environment..no of plastic bags, and we would not leave anything behind.
We chose the camping site.
The memories lingered, even after eight years. We had the pleasure of meeting so many people, from former diplomats to army officers. We ate a lot – everything from momos to noodles, popcorn to chips. Even some basic meals were prepared for us. As we slept, the sunset. From our tents, we could see the night sky. We could see the stars from our tents. It was freezing cold and beautiful. Although I wish they were shooting stars, in retrospect, I didn’t need them. There was no other option.
View from our camp
The mist and clouds slowly faded into one another as morning dawned. We took in the sights of Pangong Tso as we walked, moving our legs. It was slow going at 4250m or 14270ft. The lakes were silent as the silence echoed. Although the sun was playing hide-and-seek in the morning, the colors were too vibrant. As we sipped our tea, we took in the views below.
We just walked hand-in-hand, chatting non-stop and taking in the most beautiful moments.
These Pristime moments are a highlight.
My best trip memory is the one that I spent camping under the stars at Pangong Tso, Ladakh. It was also the time when I saw the sunset from Pangong Tso. This is one of many things you can do in Ladakh.
My favorite blue
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