The Maldives conjures images of beautiful beaches, reef-ringed islands, and luxurious bungalows on water, where guests can see fish through glass floors, jump into the ocean from their balconies, and lucky guests can enjoy the stunning views from the balcony.

This island nation has been on my “bucket” list for a long time. So when I decided to visit last Month, the Maldives was a natural addition to my itinerary.

Notably, there is now a growing budget travel scene in the country.

The Maldivian government granted permission to locals in 2009 to open their restaurants and guesthouses to tourists. Travelers used to be restricted to resort islands. Now they can visit any island in the Maldives and stay there. There are now many guesthouses, hotels, and homestays.

It was a significant shift in policy that allowed locals to have a share of the economic pie.

Although I wanted to live everyday life, these idyllic images flooded my thoughts. I couldn’t miss this kind of luxury.

I split my nine-day trip into two parts. I spent four days at a resort and five on the “real” island.

The High End of Life

I flew with a friend from Dubai to the Cinnamon Hakuraa Huraa resort 150km southeast of Male. The hotel, like all resorts, is located on its island and boasts its restaurant, bar, spa, and operated tours. Meals and beverages are included in the price of your room, as with most resorts.

I was desperate for a long overdue vacation and work detox. My visit was exactly what the doctor ordered. A tropical island with limited internet and a friend who was my job to keep me away from work was all that was needed.

I spent my days avoiding sunburn at the beach, reading books (I highly recommended A Year of Living Danishly), and drinking wine. Then, I retired for more reading or a movie.

It was straightforward to live on an island. You don’t need to worry about transportation, food, or where to go.

It was a vacation.

The staff was friendly and knowledgeable. There was always food available. Unless you wanted to pay extra for the romantic crab restaurant, or the lunchtime cooking classes, meals were served buffet-style. The picture below shows the fantastic meal I prepared.

We took advantage of some hotel tours and went dolphin watching. There were so many! We snorkeled every day and visited some of the nearby islands.

The resorts of the country cater to couples or families, so there are very few single travelers and non-couples in these resorts. My friend and I were the only couples on the island.

Although I was surprised that there wasn’t much interaction between guests, it’s not surprising.

After four days, my friend was ready for me to leave. I only can take a vacation for a few days before getting bored. Although the high life was precisely what I imagined it to be, a life of luxury and relaxation, I wanted to see the real Maldives get to know the people there, and meet some locals.

The Life You Want

After seeing my friend at the airport in Male, I boarded a speedboat to head to Maafushi to begin my island-hopping journey.

It was an awful place. I will never go back.

Maafushi was once a peaceful little island but is now the victim of uncontrolled development.

Hotels are popping up all around, some boats regularly make trips to Male to pick up tour groups, and there is one tiny, overcrowded, overbuilt beach. It is home to a few restaurants, which cater primarily to tourists. Only one dump in the area has been cleaned up for visitors.

The writing on the wall can be seen — this is following Ko Phi Phi. A guesthouse owner from another island stated, “soon, there won’t be any more locals there.” They will just rent their land and move to Male.

Maafushi can be used for various purposes, including diving and snorkeling. It also acts as a launch pad to quieter, prettier islands like Gulhi or Fulidhoo.

After a few days, I was able to escape to Mahibadhoo. Kristin (our excellent solo female travel writer) stayed there several years ago. I was eager to check it out and see the Amazing Noovilu, which was praised as being “possibly one of the most beautiful guesthouses in the Maldives.” It was adorable. Although it was too expensive for me, the service, food, and activities provided by the staff were excellent. Fantastic attention to detail. I highly recommend it.

Unlike Maafushi, I liked Mahibadhoo.

The island was kept clean by local women who volunteered to clean it once a week. It also had more color, with a rainbow of pastel-colored buildings. I was able to watch local soccer matches every night. There was also more activity here. The vibe was overall just better.

Despite having access by speedboat to Male, the island has managed to escape (for now) the mass development of Maafushi. Although it does not have a “bikini” beach (as are the beaches for foreigners), it offers good snorkeling offshore. It is a great launching point for day trips to deserted sandbars and quieter islands such as Dhanbidhoo and Kalhaidhoo.

Although the locals are building guesthouses on the islands they live on, many need to be opened to tourists. Only a few islands have ferry service, and many don’t offer any restaurants or beaches. There are two reasons why this is so.

First, there is a bikini beach for tourists. Maldives is a Muslim nation. It would help if you were fully covered for public beaches. Many islands have no white sandy beaches, so they built their own. The bikini name is a way to disguise the fact that visitors are often less dressed than the locals.

Second, eating out is not a common thing in the Maldives. Most locals cook for themselves. There are very few restaurants and cafes in the area. The guesthouses usually offer meals for guests, which are included in the cost. You can still get good food from the guesthouses, which often provide delicious curried fish and rice. It’s simple but delicious.

While the local communities are still trying new ways to handle tourism, I was sad to leave. I wish I had more time to explore the atolls’ nooks and corners. Everyone was amiable and interested. It would have been great to visit and learn more about the local culture.

Travel tips for the Maldives

Although the Maldives is not expensive, you should be able to make informed decisions before you leave.

Ferries are expensive and take time.– Male is the port that serves the Maldives atolls. They cost between $2-5 USD, but their schedule is unpredictable. One never arrived, but I was supposed to have one.

Most people only travel once per day. If one does not arrive, you must pay $25 for a speedboat or wait until the next day.

Research the ferry schedules before you go to the Maldives. This will help you plan your itinerary. With planning, island hopping can be more accessible. I only looked at the ferry system after arriving, and I missed some islands I wanted to explore. I mistakenly believed that there would be frequent ferry services between islands.

Here are the schedules for inter-island ferry services.

Speedboats can be your friend. You can take speedboats from Male to some of the surrounding capital islands. The cost is $25-30 USD, but they leave very rarely (Maafushi was the only island with multiple speedboat departures). A speedboat is a great option if you have little time or a tight budget.

No alcohol – The Maldives is a Muslim country, and you cannot get alcohol elsewhere than on the resort islands, which have a special exemption.

It is costly. Flying here is extremely expensive. Flying from Male to the surrounding islands can cost as much as USD 350 per way. This is a mistake.

Bring lots of USD. Although the Maldives uses its currency, the rufiyaa, US dollars are widely accepted. You often get a lower price if your payment is in USD. This can vary from restaurant to shop, so I always had USD and USD. (Though it’s only a .50 cents difference, don’t worry too much.

Maldivian ATMs can charge up to USD 6.50 per withdrawal. These fees can be reduced or eliminated by withdrawing large amounts of cash. A bank that reimburses these fees will also help.

You can rest assured that the Maldives are very safe. Nobody is going to take all the cash. I have never felt uncomfortable having lots of money around me.

All charges at resorts will be made to your credit card. Make sure you have a card that has no foreign exchange fees!

Is it suitable for solo travelers?

Yes. If you are looking for it, you can relax and let your mind be on yourself.

You’ll find many travelers in Male going to dive boats and bouncing around from island to island. But it’s mostly friends, couples, and families. The Maldives is not recommended for solo travelers despite the low cost of travel.

Are the Maldives expensive?

You can! Even though they import lots of goods, you can still get by on USD 75 per day if your accommodation is shared. These prices do not include airfare or travel insurance.

You don’t need to worry about spending too much alcohol since there is no alcohol available on the islands. These are the typical 2020 costs:

• One room in a local hotel: $45-55 USD/night
• Public ferry: $2-5 USD per ride
• Male Airport ferry: $1 US
• Speedboats: $25-35 USD per ride
• Tea: USD 0.50
• Snorkel rental: $8 USD/day
• Whale shark diving: USD 200
• Meals: $9-11USD each
• Buffet Dinners: $15-20USD each
• Sandwich on Male: $5-5 USD
• Bottle water: $0.40-0.70 US

The most significant expense in my four days was USD 120 to rent a speedboat to return to Male after my ferry failed to arrive. The islands were a great deal!

***

The Maldives is often viewed as expensive and high-end, but that’s not the case. It is much cheaper than many of the more popular destinations in Southeast Asia or the Caribbean.

I would love to spend more time island-hopping one day. There is so much more to do and see here.

I recommend you visit the Maldives as soon as the islands are too developed and the beaches become too crowded by the sea. The Maldives is budget-friendly, so don’t delay!