PLACES NEAR WARANGAL

The journey was the destination. We took a road trip to Hyderabad and Warangal and saw many towns and villages along the way. Each one told a different story. There are many things to do near Warangal. These include the Ramappa Temple, the Laknavaram Lake, and Cheravu, which the Kakatiyas built. Laknavaram Lake is home to 13 islands. Forests, waterfalls, and other natural beauty also surround it. Ramappa Temple is only 30km from Laknavaram, making them both popular tourist destinations near Warangal.

Places to See Near Warangal

Some of the attractions near Warangal require at least three days. Some tourist spots near Warangal can be reached via Hyderabad or Warangal. However, Ramappa Temple and other places are outside the historic towns of Hanamkonda or Warangal. For example, the fort at Bhongir that we found atop a hill was once known as the 10th-century Bhuvanagiri fort from the Western Chalukyas. Kolanpuka, a small village, was the capital of the same dynasty. It housed a renovated 2000-year-old Jain temple that shimmered in marble. We continued on our journey, passing a bus full of schoolchildren on an excursion. Finally, we stopped at Yadavagirigutta, a cave temple. A few Pembarti artisans showed us their brassware. As we crossed Jalgaon, where Lord Rama had killed Maricha as a deer, myths from the Ramayana flew by us. This short story is about some incredible villages and towns near Warangal.

Bhongir – A forgotten fort

After driving approximately an hour from Hyderabad, we passed several villages and reached 50 km from Telangana Warangal, the capital of Telangana. It was still a couple of hours before we arrived at the city. As our driver pulled into a petrol bump, a loud town erupted. It was then that I saw it. It didn’t initially seem like a tourist spot near Warangal. But, eventually, I understood its significance.

It looked just like another hilltop at first glance. Then, I noticed a long stone wall made from rock. A citadel at the top of it caught my eye. It looked down on the once-protected town. I was at Bhongir, or Bhuvanagiri Fort, formerly known as Tribhuvanagiri. The fortress was built in the 10 th century by Thirubhuvanamalla VI, a Western Chalukya ruler. It has seen many wars and the beginning and end of several dynasties. The Kakatiyas followed the Chalukyas. Then came the Nayaks and the Bahmini Sultans of Delhi, the Vijayanagar Kings, the Nizam, and the British. It became a sleepy fort and a curiosity for tourists like us. But, Bhongir, which is worth seeing near Warangal, has been rediscovered as a place to visit for its rich history.

The fort had two entrance points that were guarded with rocks and boulders. It was almost egg-shaped. The turrets and stone bastions stood out against the blue sky. A moat was seen around the fort, and small lotus pools were made from the rocks. Our driver pointed out the trapdoors and showed us that there were stables and an armory. According to our driver, the underground tunnels and chambers connected to Golconda Fort. It was likely a prison, too.

The region around Warangal, Bhuvanagiri, was divided into smaller kingdoms governed by different chieftains. During the reigns of the Musuri Nayaks, who ruled Warangal in 14 th centuries, many clans of Nayaks fought against the Delhi Sultans and Bahmani Sultans. Bhuvanagiri, also known as Bhongir, was once controlled by the Padma Nayaks and Recherala Velamas. Each ruler sought to assert their independence, and unity was yet to be achieved among them. The battle of Bhuvangiri saw the Bahmani Sultans defeat the fort due to conspiracies between the different clans. The Nayaks from Bhuvanagiri, who allegedly conspired with the Bahmani Kingdom, eventually became vassals for the Sultans and ceded their fort.

Over time, the fort gradually lost its importance and became a silent witness to the passing of time. We could look down from a height of 500ft and see the town’s daily life. The magnificent view from Bala Hisar, the citadel, was obscured by dust from vehicles that snagged the road. The glory of the kings who sought power is still evident in the fort’s rocky gates and arches. As we continued our journey, we lost ourselves in thought and sought more places near Warangal.

Kolanupaka, an old capital

It’s easy to see the dusty hamlet you pass on your journey as another village in India. It is quiet and unassuming and appears to be without any identity other than the few people who call it home. A stray temple, or the ruins of an old fort, tells a different story. One such small village was discovered on the way to Warangal and turned out to have been a prominent place eons back.

Kolanupaka was easy to pronounce and even more so on a tourist’s map. It was located 6 kilometers from Aler, a town I had met while traveling from Hyderabad to Warangal. I went there to visit the Jain temple, which is located near Warangal. It was a 2000-year-old temple.

We saw the fortifications as we entered the village. Only after I entered the village did I learn of their legacy. This town was patronized by the Western or Kalyani Chalukyas, who made it their second capital. It remained under the Cholas as well as the Kakatiyas. Monuments and inscriptions indicate the patronage of these rulers. It was also a center of Jainism and Veera Sivism in the 11th Century. The town was virtually forgotten, except for a brief mention by historians when it played an essential role in the Telangana revolution and the battle between Telangana and the Nizams.

To our surprise, the Jain Mahavira Temple had been completely renovated. A few artisans told us from Rajasthan that the temple was not allowed for photography. The entire structure showcased marble and was decorated with Tirthankaras. Kolanupaka, which is believed to be an ancient Jain center, is associated with Adinatha, the first Tirthankara.

Only a few high school students entered the temple after we left. The ASI exhibited more than 100 sculptures, artifacts, and other objects as we moved on to the Someshwara and Veeranarayana temples. There were also unique sculptures in the temples – a sandstone image depicting Hanuman, along with granite idols representing Ganesha, Karthikeya and, Kodandarama, Saraswati, were some of these. The courtyard was home to veerakal and hero stones.

We heard from the village that Renukacharya, a Veera Saiva saint, was born there. Even today, the villagers believe that he was taken to a ‘Svayambaghu Linga” and merged with it after he preached the doctrine.

We returned to the highway and left behind a hamlet rich with myths and history but unknown to many.

Kush Mahal, standing amidst Warangal Fort.

As we approached the gates of the Warangal fort, the sun vanished into a thick cloud cover. The air was tingling with a definite nip. As we entered the archways of the Kakatiya capital, a single pushcart was in front of us. As I drove around the old settlement, it was difficult to remember an era that dates back several centuries.

As I gazed at the Kakatiya fort’s remains, I inhaled deeply. The ruins were covered in thick green fabric and spread across a large area that seemed like a vast field. The strewn statues were surrounded by the four Kirti Toranas or Pillars of Victory. Our story focused on something other than the Kakatiya monuments. It was about a simple mahal, which stood diagonally in front of the fort.

The Kush Mahal was built in the Indo-Saracenic style during the 16 th century. It stood out among the tall toranas and ornate columns that dotted the old settlement. This mysterious monument, now a museum, was probably built by Shitab Khan, the local governor who seized Warangal Fort from Bahmani rulers. It is believed that it was built on top of a Kakatiya palace and was likely used as an auditorium. It was a repository for idols found in the vicinity.

However, I was drawn to the story of Shitab Khan, who was born Sitapati Raju, a Hindu. He joined the Bahmani Sultans’ army that invaded Warangal during the 14 th century. After the Sultanate split, he rebelled against them. Quli Qutub Shah, the founder of the Qutub Shahi dynasty and Golconda’s separate kingdom, took Warangal’s reins from the Bahmani rulers. Although Shitab Khan may have fled to Odisha, he left Warangal with inscriptions that speak of his legacy.

I took in the whole view from the Mahal as I climbed up to it. Kush Mahal is the most prominent royal monument from that period. The entrance inscription mentioned Shitab Khan’s rule, but the Mahal’s sloping walls suggested that it was built during Mohammed Bin Tughlaq’s reign, which is the 14 th century. There were some broken idols from Jain and Hindu temples in the hall. The wall panels were, however, the most striking part of the Mahal.

As I walked through the city, the silence of the old town echoed inside my head. This monument also saw ravages like many others hidden in abandoned villages and hamlets.

These are just a few of the many beautiful spots near Warangal that have so much history and mystery. Are you a Warangal resident, and have you explored the tourist spots near Warangal?